Cleaning the Dishes
 We
Eat - They Get Dirty
Considered by some to be the drudgery of the day, and by others a water
meditation, dishwashing may be the most regularly executed domestic task
after personal bathing. Many American houses have had dishwashers since
the 60's, and some since the 50's, so there are lots of folks who don't
know much about washing dishes by hand.
How It Works
Basically automatic dishwashing and hand dishwashing are pretty different
activities because they have such individual relationships to time, friction,
and concentrations of detergent. The manual washing of dishes requires
"elbow grease", so detergents needn't be as strong as with automatic
dishwashing. Machine washed dishes require extremely hot water and concentrated
soap to make up for the lack of friction.
The Ongoing Controversy - Which Uses Less Water?
Automatic dish washing machines use less water than most hand washing
methods. Statistics indicate that modern machines use between 6 to 10
gallons of water per load, and of course, the same amount is used for
a full load as a small one. Some people hand wash dishes by scrubbing
with a soapy sponge under a constant stream of water. This uses much more
than 10 gallons of water when washing a batch equivalent to a machine
full of dishes. Other folks immerse everything into a tub of hot soapy
water, a method that may use less water depending on the quantity of water
used to pre-rinse and post rinse a full load of dishes.
Pre Cleaning Is the Key
Whether ultimately cleaned by hand or machine, pre cleaning is the ticket
to success when done with care. A quick response to the meal just finished
reduces the amount of work and time needed to pre-scrub pots and pans,
or dishes because food hasn't crusted on, and grease hasn't
congealed yet.
Scraping
Pre cleaning begins with scraping off the big bits (hopefully into the
compost bucket!). Using a rubber or plastic spatula may be the most effective
tool since the user doesn't need to choose between employing an
increasingly goopy sponge, or continually rinsing an abrasive pad. Wooden
tools are serviceable, but avoid metal ones as they are too hard and might
scratch the surface of what is being cleaned. If everything wipes away,
the object is ready for hot soapy water of one sort or another.
Soaking
If food is still stuck on, soaking is your greatest ally. Ten or twenty
minutes should do it; then scrape again.
Another Tip
Before the meal goes to the table, it is especially helpful if jars, pots,
pans, and baking dishes are thoroughly scraped out as their contents are
being transferred to serving dishes. That way more gets to the table,
there is less mess to deal with after eating, and what's left hasn't
dried on.
 Hand
Dishwashing Procedure
How to Go About It
For really clean dishes and greatly reduced hassle, there are three steps
to effectively washing kitchen gear and dinnerware by hand: pre-cleaning,
washing, and rinsing.
Pre Cleaning Most Things
For hand washing, pre cleaning is actually pre washing. The modern availability
of copious amounts of hot running water, is what separates this task from
the dish washing of a hundred years ago. After scraping off uneaten food,
run most things under a stream of hot water while quickly wiping with
a soapy sponge to really ensure trouble free washing, This way most of
the small bits will be eliminated and contamination of the dishwater is
avoided.
Pre Cleaning the Rest
If silverware is crusty, soak it and then wipe it down with a damp sponge
or dishcloth, and if serving tools are smeared with peanut butter or mayonnaise
wipe them off with a paper towel. Pour a little water into what has hardened
onto the bottom of a drinking glass or mug , and let it sit till it can
be rinsed or wiped out easily.
Washing
Soap and Water
Begin the washing phase with a big basin full of hot soapy water. This
however, is not license to use more soap than necessary since too much
detergent makes successful rinsing a nightmare. Because the concentration
level of every product is different, experience is the only effective
gauge, so begin with less detergent, adding more if necessary.
First Things First
There is a pecking order to what gets washed first if the water is to
remain relatively clean and serviceable throughout. Leave the greasy stuff
till last; begin with glassware used for water, soda, beer, wine, or other
non-fat beverages. Then wash cups, mugs and glasses that contained fatty
beverages like milk, hot beverage with cream or milk, hot chocolate, etc.
Personal Anecdote of Green Martha's
Green Martha learned this order from her mother and always washed dishes
this way until a few years ago while working as a housekeeper for a local
grand dame. She roundly scolded Green Martha for washing her teapot too
early in the cycle, crossly explaining that the oils from the pre rinsed
pot were contaminating her dishwater. Hmmm, a blunt reminder that everyone
has her or his own standards!
Next Batch
After beverage containers are done, move onto the least greasy dishes.
This may be lunch plates before soup bowls, or dinner plates before serving
pieces. Somewhere in all of this, handfuls of pre washed silverware get
slipped in so there isn't a big pile to deal with at the end. Kitchen
gear follows the same rules as dishware, beginning with the least greasy.
If everything has been pre-cleaned, this part won't be much more
trouble than the dishes were.
 When
to Change the Dishwater
Dishwater will loose its layer of suds when the detergent has absorbed
all the grease it can handle. If that happens, or if the dishwater is
getting cool, it's time to prepare new dishwater before going on
to pots and pans, or the last of a big round of dishes.
The Labor Saving Tip
If every load is left to soak in the dishwater for a few minutes before
the actual scrubbing begins, a lot less elbow grease is needed. Soaking
time can be well used to put away food, wipe down counters, or make the
next day's lunches.
 Rinsing
The Sanitary Finish
As each piece is washed it is usually rinsed immediately in a stream of
hot water. This is probably the most sanitary way to finish the job, but
it can also waste lots of water if the tap is left running through out.
Most of us think we turn off the water between rinsing objects, but that
might not be the case upon observation.
The Final Test for Cleanliness
If water beads up while rinsing something, there is still a film of grease;
if it diverts around little specks then there are still bits of food crusted
on, but if water sheets off while rinsing, it is truly clean.
Drying
Let the Air Do It
When it comes to drying dishes there are lots of options. Some folks who
seldom use their dishwasher employ the rack for drying hand washed dishes.
Others use a typical rack and dish drain, sometimes storing it under the
counter when not being used to free up counter space for other activities.
Still others lay their dishes, cups, and silverware on a towel spread
over part of the counter. Dish racks are usually more sanitary than laying
dishes on towels because air can flow under and through with a rack. Also,
it doesn't take long for a dishtowel to get soggy from draining
dishes, producing a fertile breeding ground for germs.
Using a Towel
These days, dishes are seldom dried by hand unless there are many waves
of dishes from a particularly big meal. However, the rule of thumb is
to start a new towel as soon as the last one is beyond damp because it
isn't particularly effective anymore and not as sanitary either.
Keeping the Tools Clean
It is also a good idea to discourage bacteria growth by storing sponges
and dishcloths in a way that they can thoroughly dry out between uses.
At the end of washing up, make sure the sponge or dishcloth isn't greasy,
is well rinsed, and completely wrung out. Placing a sponge on a rack,
stand, or soap dish with a grate in the bottom of it, allows for appropriate
air circulation. Regularly toss them into the wash, preferably in hot
water with a non-chlorine bleach too ensure safe cleaning, and replace
when necessary. It is also a good idea to occasionally scrub dishpans,
dish racks, and dish drains.
Pots and Pans
 Stainless
Steel and Aluminum
The pre cleaning of cooking gear is the only phase that should require
any elbow grease in the whole washing process. Once the pot has been soaked,
there can sometimes be a stubborn residue to contend with after the mushy
or sticky stuff has been scraped away. At this point some folks grab for
a nylon mesh scrubby when dealing with stainless steel or aluminum, but
pre-soaped steel wool pads tend to be gentler, more efficient, and precise.
When using a new scouring pad there is probably more soap available than
necessary, so wet only the part of the pad that will have contact with
the pan. In small circles work the pad over the affected area until friction
diminishes underhand, and there is no more resistance. This indicates
that the surface is clean, without rinsing to look.
More About Steel Wool Pads
Because steel wool pads are more flexible that plastic ones, they are
remarkably responsive to finely tuned cleaning. They work better in tight
places, like between the rim of a pot and its handle, or in the indentation
where the lid fits the top of a pan. Steel wool pads can be wadded up
fat and bunchy or flattened out to make an edge. Altering pressure on
the pad prevents the scratching that sometimes happens with nylon pads
or the big shiny metal ones. Keeping the pad relatively dry and clean
is the trick for best results If there are food bits on the pad after
using it, rinse quickly, squeeze out the excess moisture and pull at the
pad to fluff it a little so air can move in and through it. Then sit it
where it can dry thoroughly preventing it from rusting. Like some good
casseroles, a steel wool pad is usually better the second and third times
around.
 Enamel
or No-Stick Cookware
Cleaning no-stick or enamel cookware requires a different approach. Scrape
well with a tool pliant enough to prevent scratching the surface but stiff
enough to rub it clean. Wash in hot soapy water and rinse.
Cast Iron Skillets
For a well seasoned, frequently used, cast iron skillet, wipe clean with
a paper towel and then store. This procedure protects the accumulated
oils that seal the metal and prevents food from sticking or tasting metallic
after cooking. If food is still stuck after a quick wipe, scrub the stubborn
spots with a scraper or steel wool pad, then rinse, and dry. Never soak
cast iron as it will eat away the coating and eventually the pan will
rust.
The Burned on Mess
In addition to the customary scrubbing of pans and pots, it is sometimes
necessary to tackle the after effects of cooking gone awry. When a pan
is scorched, or food is burned on to a pot, a really effective way to
bring it back is to fill it with water to the level of the burn and add
a quarter cup of baking soda for a two-quart pot. Bring the mixture to
a boil, and then let it soak without heat for about an hour. Scrape again,
then wash in the customary manner.
Copper - A Green Martha Anecdote
Green Martha was late to learn the simple trick to keeping copper pots
shiny. For years she'd used the metal polish of her employer's
when shining their pans but didn't go to the trouble of polishing
her own because the fumes were too nasty to bother with. Then a friend
was incredulous one day to discover she didn't know about lemon
and salt!
How it Works
Sprinkle salt on a copper pan (Green Martha uses coarse salt), and rub
the surface with the inside of a previously squeezed lemon. Voila! Simple
as that, most stains wipe right away. To those that remain, scrub with
a scouring pad, and wash as usual, being sure to dry the pot by hand so
the good work doesn't streak.
 What
to Use
Dishwashing Liquid; Another Anecdote
As with any other products, there are lots of variations in features and
performance. A few years back I realized I needed to consider that there
might be another dishwashing liquid beyond my tried and true, one that
didn't leave such a strong scent on my hands after the dishes were
done. I was not pleased with the performance of the first few I tried,
but finally settled on one that listed all of it's ingredients,
had no perfume, and contained no petroleum by-products, and cleaned really
well without drying out my hands.
Too Much of a Good Thing
In the last few years, most conventional dishwashing liquids have become
very concentrated, and they recommend right on the label to use less.
However, many of us are creatures of habit and continue to squeeze the
bottle just as long and as hard as we used to. These products are precisely
formulated and we may be using too much of a good thing. If breaking the
habit doesn't seem to be happening, add some water to the bottle
when it is 1/4 used up.
Conventional Dishwashing Liquid
Some conventional dishwashing liquids contain formaldehyde, ethanol, and
glycol ethers, and many also list themselves as antibacterials. (for more
on antibacterials) However, manufacturers
are not required to list proprietary ingredients, so information transparency
can be minimal. (for more on proprietary
information)
Alternative Dishwashing Liquid
Alternative dishwashing liquids usually list their ingredients because
that is a major selling feature for lots of their customers. The detergent
component or surfactant (cleaning agent), is usually plant or animal based
instead of petrochemical (petroleum). Most other ingredients are commonly
recorded as identifiable elements instead of oblique chemical compounds.
These products are often a pre mixed version of ingredients found in make-at-home
recipes.
Traditional Dishwashing Liquid
The attributes of a good dishwashing liquid are its ability to suds up,
cut grease, and rinse well. A recipe of soap flakes, glycerin, and essential
oil, mixed with water, tags all three bases. Using it in hot water makes
it most effective.
Homemade
dishwashing soap recipe
Automatic Dishwashing
Green Martha knows someone who chose the convenience of a dishwasher
over a clothes washer when she was a young bride some 45 years ago. Sometime
in the late 50's or early 60's, when my then graduate student
friend and her husband lived in an apartment outside Boston, they discovered
they could get away with going to the Laundromat every other week, but
the dishes piled up daily! In the interest of efficiency and marital harmony,
they bought a portable dishwasher and happily used it for five years until
they moved to a house that had one built in. When my friend's two
children came along she bought a clothes washer, but she still considered
her dishwasher the most essential appliance in the house.
Busy Households
Most people who live in a household with a dishwasher aren't sure
how they ever got along without it. This is particularly true when lots
of folks live together since there is nothing better for keeping counters
clear and maintaining a uniform standard of dish cleanliness than a dishwasher.
Small Households
Whether full or nearly empty, most dishwashers use the same amount of
water, electricity, and soap per load. Therefore, smaller households either
need to have enough dishes for the number meals necessary to fill the
machine, or consent to the inefficiency and environmental price of the
dishwasher running before it is full.
Conserving Resources
Today's new dishwashers use roughly half the electricity of those
built 25 years ago, with approximately 80% of that energy going to heating
the water. For efficiency, it is smart to make sure the house water heater
is insulated, as well as the hot water pipes running to the kitchen. Performance
is further enhanced in newer machines because they have the ability to
pre heat the water. According to the Soap and Detergent Association, the
total volume of water used in a complete automatic dishwashing cycle can
vary from six to ten gallons. Most people use more water when hand washing
the same amount of dishes as a full dishwasher load, but the statistics
may change if machine washed items are pre-rinsed.
How It Works
A dishwashing machine works by a very hot water and cleaning solution
being sprayed onto the dishes at high pressure through the small holes
of revolving spray arms or spray towers. The detergent solution then drops
to the bottom of the tub where it is run through a filter and recirculated.
At the end of the wash cycle, the soapy water is drained out and fresh
hot rinse water introduced. Proper loading of the machine is crucial to
the effective distribution of water and detergent. Another essential step
to ensure that everything cleans thoroughly is the frequent cleaning of
the filter trap in the bottom of the washing compartment.
Volatization
Another health precaution associated with automatic dishwashing detergent,
is volatization. Volatization is the word for the steamy mist that emanates
from a dishwasher when the door is opened shortly after the cycle is finished.
Contact with this vapor can be dangerous because the chemicals from the
detergent can be inhaled when they become airborne. If possible, wait
an hour or so after drying time has ended before opening the door. If
that isn't possible, step aside as soon as the door latch is released.
Too Delicate for the Machine?
Some pieces that might not fair well in a dishwasher because of the velocity
or temperature of the water, or potency of the detergent, are fine crystal,
fine china when the decorations aren't enameled, cutlery with glued
on handles, or anything with exposed iron or copper. Other objects to
keep an eye on are wooden articles, or silver pieces. Silver can turn
black from prolonged exposure to specific foods, or from electrolysis
when silver comes in contact with certain other metals in a hot wet environment.
Silver plated articles turn yellow if the plate itself is wearing away
from the vigorous action of the dishwasher.
Procedure
Efficiency
If enough dishes are generated in a day to fill and run the machine, then
the system operates at maximum efficiency. If the machine is run shortly
after the dishes are used, pre cleaning is minimal, so scraping alone
should be sufficient. But if dishes are to be stored for a day or two
before the machine is run, some things may have to be rinsed before being
placed in the dishwasher. When dishes aren't fully clean at the
end of the cycle, check to see that the filter in the bottom of the machine
is clear of debris and clean it out if necessary.
"Over Clean"
Because Green Martha's experience with automatic dishwashing is
limited, she is relying on the words of others when she passes on the
suggestion that the complete rinsing of articles destined for the dishwasher
causes the detergent to become too alkaline, causing glassware to look
cloudy, frosted, or etched after repeated washings. She suspects this
is also what happens to eating utensils made of real silver when they
acquire a frosty patina, and it is the reason there can be a dragging
sensation when a hand is run across an "over clean" piece.
Another argument for the scrap-only philosophy is that pre rinsing combined
with automatic washing may actually use more water than efficient hand
washing.
Plastic Can Absorb Detergent Taste and Smell
Because cups, glasses, and dishes made of plastic are relatively soft,
they have the ability to absorb the tell tale smell and taste associated
with exposure to strong detergents. If this is the case, consider changing
to an alternative product or washing these items by hand without letting
them soak in the dishwater very long.
Electrolysis
Sometimes eating utensils and cooking tools pit with small black spots
which indicates that electrolysis is occurring because two different metals,
often silver and stainless steel, have come in contact in a hot wet environment.
The remedy is to separate the two sets of metal object so they don't
touch one another during the cycle.
While the hand dishwashing segment dealt primarily with technique, the
automatic dishwashing section will focus more on product.
 Product
Suds
Unlike hand washing, automatic cleaning relies more heavily on the temperature
and force of the water, as well as strength of the detergent. The primary
difference between hand dishwashing detergent and automatic dishwashing
detergent is the former necessitates generous amounts of suds while the
latter must produce little or no foam to work well. Only automatic dishwashing
detergent can be used in machines because any other type of soap may interfere
with the spray action and ultimately cause an overflow. The efficacy of
automatic detergent is crucial because friction or elbow grease is not
involved in the process. Over sudsing, is usually a signs of too much
soap, and spotting, filming, and flecks of debris are signs of too little.
Hard Water
Hard water is the often-unknown factor that very much determines the ability
of a detergent to clean. Water hardness describes the amount of dissolved
calcium and magnesium present in water. These minerals bind up the detergent
so very little of it is available to actually clean.
Phosphates
Phosphates are traditionally added to automatic dishwashing detergents
to soften water, enabling soap or detergent to clean, but phosphates cause
lots of problems. They aren't readily biodegradable, and they increase
the nutrient load of discharged water so rapid algae growth is promoted.
Microorganisms eat these tiny plants but require additional oxygen in
the process. As their numbers expand, they strip out more oxygen, depleting
the source for more complex animals, and in extreme situations producing
a dead body of water. For these reasons, some states have banned phosphates
in cleaning products, but automatic dishwashing detergents are usually
exempt, claiming there are no reasonable alternatives to phosphates.
 Martha's
Vineyard's Water
It is important to know the hardness of local water when determining how
much detergent to add. Nick Thorne, from Island Water Systems explains
that for the most part, Martha's Vineyard has soft water. Measured
in milligrams per liter (mg/L), anything under 17 is considered soft,
and on average Island water comes in at 20 mg/L. This is because our soils
are made up primarily of sand and clay with very little limestone. For
optimal cleaning and the least amount of wear and tear on the machine,
Nick recommends a level teaspoon of automatic dishwashing detergent instead
of filling up the dispenser, and Green Martha urges using products that
don't contain phosphates.
Detergent Formulations
All automatic dishwashing detergent is produced in one of two forms -
powder or gel. Powders tend to absorb moisture and carbon dioxide gas
from the atmosphere causing them to become lumpy. Because of this, manufacturers
package their products in a moisture barrier wrapper to keep the powder
dry, so opening the package carefully, ensures it can be resealed completely.
Storing it in a dry place may also be crucial to the effectiveness of
the detergent. Undisolved detergent tends to cake and build up, interfering
with cleaning, as well as clogging drains and plumbing. Gel automatic
dishwashing liquid however, doesn't have to dissolve before it begins
to clean, eliminating a step in the process.
Conventional Automatic Dishwashing Detergent
In most conventional automatic dishwashing products, nonionic surfactants,
or detergents, are the foundational ingredient used to reduce the surface
tension of the water while keeping suds in check. Sodium carbonate, and
trisodium phosphate are also included to dissolve greasy food soils. Complex
phosphates are incorporated to suspend hard water minerals so they won't
combine with food solids causing spots or a film on dishes. Chlorine compound
is added to sanitize and remove stains like coffee and tea, while sodium
silicate is included to protect machine parts and interrupt the corrosion
of aluminum and other metals. Boric oxide, and aluminum phosphate are
sometimes added to reduce overglaze and pattern removal from fine china.
As far as Green Martha knows, all automatic dishwashing detergents also
contains fragrance.
Alternative Automatic Dishwashing Detergent
In most alternative products, chlorine, phosphates, and fragrance are
eliminated, and citric acid is used to replace phosphates. One manufacturer,
Seventh Generation, notes that the development of their product has evolved
since the 1970's, and is now up to the same cleaning standards as
conventional automatic dishwashing detergents, a fact that was verified
by independent tests conducted in 1999 on the company's gel formula.
Traditional Dishwashing Detergent
Green Martha knows of no traditional, meaning made-at-home, recipe for
automatic dishwashing detergent.
Details
on automatic dishwashing:
The role of phosphates
in dishwashing waste water:
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